Thursday, September 27, 2012

Day 22 & 23 & 24 : Hoi An: Are we in Disney World?

The the day after my unexpected Hue Party, I awoke fresh and ready to leave town before any more locals could coax me into a day of drinking. Having taken in the compulsory sights of Hue, it was time to move to Hoi An, another historic town/tourist trap, but by most accounts a far more quaint and pleasant one than Hue. The drive, which rolls over Hai Van Pass and through the big city of Danang, is known to be very lovely. And lovely it was:


Bigger vehicles can take a tunnel through the mountain that'll knock 30 mins. off travel time. Worth it?...
Love a good hairpin pic

Hoi An is marketed as an important “Ancient City,” and indeed it was for many years, acting as a major port of call for traders from all over Asia and even as far away as Europe. As such, the city boasts a good deal of foreign influence – especially in its food and architecture – originating from long before the war, tourism, and modern development. More recently, it has become known for its pleasant Disneyesque ambiance and dirt cheap tailoring shops (of which there are too many to count), and is one of the most frequently visited tourist hot spots in Vietnam. I rolled in to town, easily found the accommodation that had been recommended to me (a bar/guesthouse hybrid dubbed The Sleepy Gecko), and headed for the beach. Despite the fact that Hoi An is not known for its beaches, it has a few nearby that are pretty fantastic.

The following day, I joined forces with a couple of French siblings staying in the dorm with me, and we made a trip to nearby Marble Mountain outside of the big city of Danang. Marble Mountain is exactly what it sounds like, only better. A few small mountains outside the city were found to be full of high quality marble stone, so naturally they threw a billion marble shops around it and started mining the hell out of it. The interesting part is, after they'd presumably taken as much stone from the mountain as they could, they turned it in to a tourist attraction so they could keep making money off of it (savvy, no?). While I wasn't expecting much, Marble Mountain turned out to be something of a sightseer's playground. There were loads of caves (not naturally occurring, but still cool) full of monuments and such, and lots of areas to climb around on and explore. We worked up quite a sweat hiking up to the top, and while the pictures don't do it justice, the views were amazing.

Read on for Marble Mountain Pix, and hear about yet another mishap – seems to be a running theme...


Seems ancient, but its not. Still cool tho

A view: the mountain I drove over the previous day, plus development


After the Mountain and a beach-side dinner, we headed back to The Sleepy Gecko, and met up with a teaching friend of mine from Hanoi who we unexpectedly ran in to at the beach. We all hung out, played some pool, and eventually got some well deserved rest. My next destination, a beach just outside of the tourism hub of Nha Trang, was quite a ways down the coast, so I decided to break the ride up in to 3 easily manageable days of driving. The first leg would be knocked out in the afternoon of the following day.

I had a nice morning taking in the sights and sounds of Hoi An's old town and bustling market, and got all packed up and ready to go by lunch time. I checked out, saddled up the bike, and hit the road. Traffic was pretty light, and I was making good time, so after an hour and a half of driving I stopped to get a bowl of noodles and rest my butt before going the last hour to Quang Ngai, where I was staying for the night.

Missing Hoi An subconsciously?..

As I sat down to my snack, I realized that I had 3 missed calls and a text on my phone, an unusually high amount of cellular traffic. The text and 2 of the calls were from my French friend, who was trying to reach me to let me know that I'd forgotten to grab my passport from the Gecko when I checked out....
siiiiiiiiiiiiiiiigh

They'd called me only about 20 minutes previously, as they didn't catch the mistake until I had already been driving for an hour. Sooo obviously I had to turn right back the way I came (not the first time that's happened this trip...) and got back to Hoi An around 3PM. By then, it was much too late to turn BACK around and try to get to where I had been going, so another night's stay at the Gecko seemed the only reasonable course of action. Not what I'd planned, but not the worst scenario that could've played out.

Next time: The biggest day of driving yet, plus some much needed beach time.

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